Plain mayonnaise is one of the most polarizing condiments on the aisle. But what about mayo that’s mixed with chipotle or herbs? Roasted garlic or truffles? It’s an idea that makes sense, and if it’s made right, one dollop, smear or drizzle can elevate food from ho-hum to delicious.

While the idea of flavored mayo is not new, an explosion of interest in the category has inspired companies to create a lineup of fun, imaginative variations. Think chili and lime, pickles and herbs, sriracha, harissa and more.

Since many companies make several flavors, we chose to do a random grab, reaching for as many different flavors as we could find. Note that we included a few titled “aioli,” the European name for garlic-flavored mayonnaise. Nearly half of the mayos we tried lean spicy, as that is easily the most popular offering.

Good flavored mayonnaise has the smooth unctuousness of traditional mayo, but with far more flavor. The best flavored mayo brings fresh, balanced flavors that complement rather than overwhelm. Bad flavored mayo is greasy, overpowering and guaranteed to wreck just about everything it touches.

Here are details on some delicious, inventive mayos that are a terrific shortcut to dressings, salads, sandwiches and more, and the disastrous, oily experiments gone wrong. Nutrition info refers to 1 tablespoon.

Stonewall Kitchen Truffle Aioli

The combination of garlic and truffle in this extra-thick, fresh-tasting mayonnaise is flawless. Both flavors shine. 90 calories, 10 g fat, 90 mg sodium. $10.79 for 10.25 ounces at Safeway. (4  stars)

Kraft Pickle Mayonnaise

As oddball as this sounds, it’s just plain yummy. Bits of sweet pickle and red pepper spiked with plenty of dill make it a delicious dollop that would be perfect on a burger — or stirred into macaroni or potato for an instant salad. 70 calories, 7 g fat, 105 mg sodium. $5.99 for 12 ounces at Safeway. (4 stars)

Best Foods Chili Lime Mayonnaise with Tajin

This Mexican-inspired mayo might not work well on a sandwich, but it is a zesty combination of lime and spice that will kick up everything from fruits to guacamole. 40 calories, 4 g fat, 150 mg sodium. $4.99 for 11.5 ounces at Raley’s. (3 1/2 stars)

Sir Kensington’s Truffle Garlic Aioli

Decent hits of garlic and truffle make this a pleasant squeeze, but it has a decidedly sweet flavor profile. 100 calories, 10 g fat, 65 mg sodium. $8.54 for 12 ounces at Whole Foods. (3 stars)

JUST Chipotle Mayo

Huge smoky chipotle notes blended into a puree that’s egg-, soy-, and dairy-free make this a win. A bit less acid would be an improvement. 90 calories, 10 g fat, 110 mg sodium, $8.59 for 12 ounces at Lucky. (3 stars)

Kikkoman Sriracha Mayo

This brand gets the balance of flavors just right. It’s tangy and medium-hot, very much like the drizzle found on a sushi roll. This would be a great finish on taco salad, a rice bowl or anything else that needs richness and heat. 90 calories, 9 g fat, 130 mg sodium. $3.49 for 8 ounces at Raley’s. (3 stars)

Best Foods Italian Herbs & Garlic

Too much of a good thing detracts from this interesting mayo. Pull back on both the basil and the garlic and it would be terrific. As is, it needs to be cut with plain mayo. 35 calories, 3.5 g fat, 110 mg sodium. $4.37 for 11.5 ounces at Safeway. (2 1/2 stars)

Kraft Buffalo Style Mayonnaise

Fans of buffalo wings will enjoy this thick, smooth blend. It’s vinegar-forward, with a fair kick of heat. More flavor would be an improvement. 80 calories, 8 g fat, 170 mg sodium. $3.97 for 12 ounces at Safeway. (2 1/2 stars)

365 Organic Spicy Harissa Mayonnaise

Warm heat and fresh pepper flavor are a plus, but the seeds in every bite are a serious distraction. 100 calories, 11 g fat, 95 mg sodium. $4.69 for 11.2 ounces at Whole Foods. (2 stars)

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Best Foods Spicy Mayonnaise

If spice is what you’re after, this slightly sweet mix delivers. It doesn’t have distinct pepper flavor, but it’s HOT. 40 calories, 4 g fat, 100 mg sodium. $4.99 for 11.5 ounces at Raley’s. (2 stars)

The Ojai Cook Lemonaise

Imagine a mayonnaise that’s kicked up with bright lemon zest. Well, this isn’t that. The blend tastes like standard mayo, and the bits in the mix are mustard seed, not lemon. 110 calories, 12 g fat, 95 mg sodium. $4.89 for 12 ounces at Raley’s. (1 1/2 stars)

Primal Kitchen Chipotle Lime Avocado Mayonnaise

This extra-creamy concoction delivers lime, but the chipotle is way understated. 90 calories, 10 g fat, 95 mg sodium. $9.99 for 12 ounces at Raley’s. (1 1/2 stars)

Primal Kitchen Buffalo Mayo with Avocado Oil

Fans of plain mayo who are tentative about the addition of extra flavors may enjoy this. It has a velvety texture, but it’s downright bland. 90 calories, 10 g fat, 150 mg sodium. $9.97 for 17 ounces at Safeway. (1 1/2 stars)

Best Foods Garlic Aioli

Unlike this brand’s traditional mayo, this is surprisingly thin. But the bigger issue is that it has so much garlic in the mix that you’ll taste it for days. 70 calories, 7 g fat, 95 mg sodium. $4.37 for 11.5 ounces at Safeway. (1 star, with caution)

Sunny Select Horseradish Mayo

Love the idea of horseradish and mayo in a single bite, but inside this bottle is a mass of slimy, sweet, congealed oil. This needs a warning label. 60 calories, 5 g fat, 160 mg sodium, 1 g sugar. $4.99 for 12 ounces at Lucky. (no stars)

Reviews are based on product samples purchased by this newspaper or provided by manufacturers. Contact Jolene Thym at [email protected]. Read more Taste-off columns at www.mercurynews.com/tag/taste-off.