When’s a fish taco not a fish taco? What about when it’s served on a blue-corn tortilla with eggless chipotle aioli and a tumbling bounty of tempura mushrooms?

That’s the satisfying preparation at Alma y Sazon, a vegan Mexican restaurant that opened this summer in Emeryville’s Public Market. Run by chef Paola Lagunas, Fernanda Lagunas and Xavier Herrera, the eatery specializes in the cuisine of Michoacán, using family recipes passed down for generations.

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Alma y Sazon might already be familiar to some locals. It existed as a pop-up at Bay Area bars and breweries and even had a stall at Outside Lands before landing its Emeryville spot, a rotating kiosk operated by restaurant incubator La Cocina.

The Taco de Mar is similar to a Baja-style fish taco but swaps in crispy, deep-fried oyster mushrooms for the cod. Some zippy purple-cabbage coleslaw gives it extra crunch ($8). The tacos al pastor are made with tofu and jackfruit that’s been marinated for 48 hours and served with pineapple and roasted salsa verde ($4.75).

Flautas de Tinga are two jackfruit taquitos with cashew crema, almond queso fresco and avocado sauce ($8). Normally porky chicharrones are made with tempura ‘shrooms and elote, the street corn, is a sweet Brentwood ear slathered in vegan mayo and chipotle aioli ($8).

Those wanting something to truly fill their belly might go for the Torta Mexicana. It’s a formidable sandwich made with vegan al pastor or hibiscus flower-marinated “asada” on a bolillo loaded with refried beans, avocado salsa, fresh veggies and plant-based queso ($14). To wash it down, there’s rainbow-hued Jarritos or a less-sugary hibiscus agua fresca.

Details: Open 4:30 p.m.-8 p.m. Tuesday, 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Wednesday-Saturday and 11 a.m.-7:30 p.m. Sunday at 5959 Shellmound St., Emeryville; almaysazonvegano.com, instagram.com/almaysazonllc